1954

Official Debut at Baselworld

The Rolex Submariner was officially introduced to the public at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. The debut model, Ref. 6204, featured a minimalist black dial, pencil-style hands, and a thin case with no crown guards.

Though the design was simple, it was revolutionary. With a rotating bezel and a focus on water resistance, the Submariner immediately set itself apart from other tool watches. It wasn’t just a diving instrument — it was the birth of a soon-to-be cultural icon.

1955–1956

Early Refinements

Just a year later, Rolex introduced variations like the Ref. 6205 and Ref. 6200. The 6200 is especially notable for its oversized “Big Crown” (8mm) and 3-6-9 Explorer-style dial, both of which have become legendary among collectors.

These early references saw Rolex refining case proportions, experimenting with dial layouts, and pushing performance. They also increased water resistance to 200 meters, further solidifying the Submariner's professional-grade status.

1958

Ref. 6536/1

Rolex continued evolving the Submariner with the release of Ref. 6536/1, which featured improved lume, more refined hands, and a slimmer profile. Though subtle in its updates, this model helped solidify Rolex’s reputation for making iterative improvements that enhanced performance without sacrificing design integrity. This period also saw Rolex using radium-based lume, which adds a layer of vintage charm — and collectability — today.

1959

Ref. 5512 Introduced

One of the most influential changes to the Submariner’s design came with Ref. 5512, which introduced crown guards for the first time. This functional update protected the winding crown from damage — an essential improvement for professional divers.

The model also featured a chronometer-certified movement and stayed in production for decades, helping to standardize what the modern Submariner looks like. The 5512 represents the shift from a niche diving tool to a refined, professional-grade wristwatch.

1962

Bond Fame Begins

Rolex’s cultural cachet skyrocketed in 1962 when Sean Connery, playing James Bond, wore a Ref. 6538 in Dr. No. The oversized crown, clean bezel, and rugged appearance made it the perfect watch for the world's coolest spy. This cemented the Submariner's image as the ultimate tool of style and danger. It marked the start of Rolex's deep relationship with Hollywood, and forever fused the Submariner with adventure, masculinity, and timeless class.

1962–1989

Ref. 5513: The Workhorse

Introduced alongside the 5512, the Ref. 5513 quickly became the go-to no-date Submariner. It was less expensive than the chronometer-certified 5512 but just as robust. With a long production run of nearly 30 years, the 5513 saw numerous dial and case variations, including the much-loved “meters first” and “maxi dial” versions. It became a staple for military forces and divers, earning a reputation for reliability, simplicity, and unshakeable toughness.

(Image credit: The Watch Club)

1969

Ref. 1680: The Submariner Gets a Date

Rolex made waves in 1969 by introducing the first Submariner with a date complication: the Ref. 1680. It also marked the debut of the Cyclops magnifying lens on the crystal — a Rolex signature. The red “SUBMARINER” text on early models makes them especially sought-after today. The addition of the date function helped position the Submariner as more than a dive watch — now it was a practical, everyday luxury piece for professionals and adventurers alike.

(Image Credit: Lunar Oyster)

1979

Ref. 16800: The Modern Sub Is Born

The Ref. 16800 was a major technical leap. It introduced a sapphire crystal (replacing acrylic), a quickset date, and a significant water resistance increase to 300 meters — setting the modern benchmark. It also brought the unidirectional bezel, improving dive safety. This model bridged the gap between vintage aesthetics and modern performance, laying the foundation for the Submariners we know today.

(Image credit: Monochrome Watches)

2003

50th Anniversary “Kermit”

To mark the Submariner’s 50th birthday, Rolex launched the Ref. 16610LV, known as the “Kermit.” It introduced a green bezel insert — a bold move for a traditionally black watch. Initially divisive, it has become one of the most collectible modern Subs. With its Maxi dial and anniversary significance, the Kermit was a nod to Rolex’s willingness to evolve while honoring its past.

(Image Credit: The Watch Club)